Vermiculture
Vermiculture
• Compost that is processed primarily by earthworms is called vermicompost.
• In the garden, earthworms improve the soil physically by making tunnels that help air, water, and plant roots move through the soil.
• They improve it chemically by transforming decomposing organic matter into nutrient rich material that provides food for plants.
Benefits
• Fresh worm casts are higher in beneficial bacteria, organic matter, nitrogen, calcium, magnesium, iron, phosphorus and potassium then soil.
• 05-05-05, does not burn, slow release
Bet you didn’t know….
• Worm compost improves plant resistance to root rot diseases, improves germination rates of seeds and promotes strong growth of lateral roots.
• The earthworms best suited to worm composting are the red worms: Red Wrigglers are champions at garden composting and are easy to manage in bins.
• They are found in the top few inches of soil beneath leaves, mulch, compost and manure piles.
• They need air, water, food and warmth.
Fun Facts:
• When temperatures get too hot or cold worms will go deeper into the soil.
• Worms can eat ½ their weight per day in decomposing food.
• Keeping worms is fun and children are captivated by them.
• Actually worms can regenerate segments if cut, (but can’t make two new worms).
Maintaining Worm Bins (or caring for your new pets)
• Worms prefer temperatures between 55 and 75.
• Feeding: coffee, tea, newspaper, fruit and vegetable trimmings, bread, rice, cornmeal.
• Do not feed animal products, dairy, onions, garlic, hot peppers, citrus rinds, too salty or too sugary foods.
• Cut up food scraps into smaller pieces.
• Worms only eat the parts of food that are decomposing.
• They will not eat live food or food that can regenerate for example, carrot tops, a piece of raw potato with an eye.
• Bedding – Add strips of newspaper, white paper, cardboard, leaves, straw. Moisten to damp sponge consistency.
• Bury food scraps under the bedding at least 3 inches deep. Feed once or twice per week depending on how fast your worms consume the food.
• Other critters live in the bin too and are also decomposers, i.e. bacteria, fungi, sow bugs, spring tails, etc. None of them will leave the bin, it’s warm and they’re only interested in decaying organic matter.
Concerns
• When cared for properly worm bins are not smelly or messy and worms readily multiply.
• If your bin smells, it’s a sign that it’s too wet, mix in more dry bedding and/or reduce feeding if your worm population is still small.
• Whether you grow worms in the soil or in a container they are very susceptible to the toxicity of insecticides, fungicides, herbicides and fertilizers.
Harvesting the Gold
• Harvest new bins after 3 to 5 months.
• Using plastic gloves, dump contents out onto a plastic covered surface. When exposed to light and fresh air, earthworms move downward in search of a cool, moist place.
• After 10 minutes you can harvest off of the top, wait another 10 minutes and repeat.
• Replenish bedding, add worms. Done.
• Add the vermicompost directly to the garden, on houseplants or combine in potting soil.
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